Here Comes Trouble: Stories from My Life

"Outstanding…Moore Triumphs! Publishers Weekly

Mike & Friends Blog

Conner Gorry

Conner Gorry is Senior Editor of 'MEDICC Review: The International Journal of Cuban Health & Medicine'

May 11th, 2010 4:05 PM

Making the Rounds: Hôpital Universitaire de la Paix

It’s not even 7:30 and already it’s hot and close as we board the bus for the circuitous, rubble-pocked ride to Hôpital Universitaire de la Paix. As the crow flies, it’s probably less than a mile from our tent camp to Port-au-Prince’s university teaching hospital, but weaving between vendors and tents pitched in the street, and then caught behind a tractor or backhoe, means it takes almost an hour to get to the front gate.

I’m traveling with the Cuban medical team that will staff the ER for the next 24 hours, relieving other members of the Henry Reeve Contingent. My fellow passengers include nurses, lab technicians, family physicians and a few other specialists, like Dr Douglas

Valverde, an energetic orthopedic surgical resident who received his training at Cuba’s Latin American Medical School (ELAM). Costa Rican by birth, Dr Valverde is one of the more than 700 ELAM-trained health professionals making up the Cuban-led international team.

Haitians of all ages are waiting their turn at medical tents pitched in the courtyard when we arrive. Things are fairly well organized, which is a dramatic improvement over the situation in the days following January 12. Hôpital Universitaire de la Paix was at or near capacity when the earthquake struck; it was quickly overwhelmed as the tremors subsided and new patients made their way in droves to the facility.

“The courtyard was filled with wounded people. To cross it we had to step over and around them saying ‘excuse me, excuse me, excuse me’ the whole time,” Dr Wilsos Canton, a Haitian graduate of the ELAM told me. “The building was in decent condition, but there was no light and no water. We delivered babies using the lights on our cell phones. There were patients everywhere,” he tells me in that stoic, but compassionate way Haitians have. This image of the aftermath settles over our conversation.

In the Post Op, Post-Quake

I’m sure what I’ll see today at Hôpital de la Paix won’t compare to those first days and even weeks after the earthquake. Still, coming into the post operative ward where orthopedic resident Dr Valverde and  Cuban colleagues Dr Mariela Rodríguez and Dr Rafael Roque visit with patients, I’m rocked back on my heels.

The heat in the 14-bed unit hovers over amputees of all ages, some moaning in what I imagine is pain mixed with frustration (and undoubtedly fear). This guttural chorus is joined by a clutch of women in the center of the room chanting and undulating, lost in energetic prayer. Daughters, girlfriends, nephews and neighbors wave kerchiefs and swaths of cardboard over their loved ones to keep the flies away. A piercing odor of human waste permeates the scene as an older woman, both legs cut off at the knee, talks to herself in a loud, stricken voice.

The first bed is occupied by one of Dr Valverde’s patients: a beautiful 18-year old who was hit by a car several days ago and presented with a broken femur. Although some of the 84 members of the Henry Reeve team working at this hospital speak Creole, Dr Valverde enlists translating help from one of the women who comes to pray for patients in this hospital several times a week. “She’s in pain and wants to know when you’ll operate,” the woman translates for us. Dr Valverde explains that they can’t operate until her femur is correctly re-aligned, something that without the proper traction equipment, will take a week—or more. The girl lets out a loud wail when this news is translated. Dr Valverde looks at me with wrinkled brow: “We rigged up this manual weight with a cinder block to help the healing process, but she’s obviously in a lot of pain.” He shifts her body a bit and adjusts the height of the block, asking via the translator if that felt better. It did.

We pass along the other beds, occupied by soft-eyed gentlemen paralyzed the instant their houses fell on them in the quake, and young laborers hit by trucks in the disorder that has gripped the Haitian capital since January 12. Trailing behind the trio of surgeons, I learn about complications seen in their daily work here, including infections, phantom limbs (patients feeling pain in their amputated limbs) and depression. Shortages of even basic supplies, despite international donations that continue to roll in, are also a challenge.

A Haitian surgeon and nurse team consults with Dr Rodríguez about another case. Once they’re out of ear shot, I ask about her experience as a female surgeon in this very masculine of settings. She tells me about her two years working in Cap-Haïtien in Cuba’s Comprehensive Health Program—the international program which has bolstered public health systems around the world since 1998, including Haiti’s.

“The hospital I worked in was founded in 1812. In nearly 200 years, I was the first female surgeon they’d ever had,” she explains to me in the laidback manner common to Cubans from the eastern provinces. “It wasn’t a problem that I was a woman, but I had to prove myself in the operating room. Once I did, we got busy.”

Emergency Room Snapshot

With the morning hours dwindling, Rodríguez, Roque, and Valverde shift their attention from the post-op recovery rooms to the hospital’s emergency area. They join colleagues from Nicaragua, Panama, and Cuba’s Villa Clara and Pinar del Río provinces, (all Henry Reeve members), to attend arrivals in the partially screened area with four metal beds. Haitian nurses and medical students lend a hand translating, among their other duties.

There is a steady stream of patients. As in most emergency rooms, (especially post-disaster in the Global South), most patients are extremely sick, including some who won’t see tomorrow. This is the prognosis for the emaciated anemic grandfather and the young woman in a pretty pink dress who has had a high fever for two weeks. Malaria will soon consume her. It’s not only the severity of the conditions these doctors see day after day that is disconcerting; it’s that many of them are preventable. That anguish is written on Dr Adac Mendoza’s face, the ELAM doctor attending the young woman.

Accident victims and chronic disease are common in this ER, and between stitching a child’s split chin and taking the blood pressure of Haitian matrons, the doctors treat the aftershocks of natural disaster. A barefoot young boy hops over to the doctors with a badly infected wound on his left calf. Tears stream down his face as the gash is cleaned of dirt, stones, unidentifiable objects (glass? bread crusts? I can’t tell and neither can the attending physician), and finally necrotic tissue. He’s given a shot of antibiotics and told to come back in the evening for another injection, though the doctors admit they probably won’t see him again: transport is too scarce and life too precarious here in post-quake Haiti for many patients to pursue follow-up. Just then, an 18-year old girl staggers in and collapses on one of the metal beds. “She tried to poison herself,” her escort tells me in English. When I ask why, his response is as disturbing as it is vague: “she was sad.”

Improving Health is Collaborative

Like in all disaster response efforts, medical teams from around the world collaborate both formally and informally in Haiti. I’m not surprised then as a blond-haired, blue-eyed woman in hospital scrubs turns up in the emergency area asking to consult on a patient with Dr Valverde. Janice Centurione is a physiotherapist from St Joseph’s Hospital in Ontario, Canada. ‘St Jo’s’, she tells me, has been “sister hospitals” with the Hôpital de la Paix for the past 20 years in a pairing intended to “train Haitians to offer a standard of care.” This extends to specialty services and after examining Janice’s patient, Dr Valverde consults with Dr Arthur Porte, an orthopedic surgeon also from St Jo’s.

“This is my third time in Haiti, but I have no previous disaster response experience, so I was reluctant to come at first,” Dr Porte tells me while looking at an X-ray of the chronically dislocated finger he is about to correct surgically. Dr Valverde, Dr Porte, and Xavier Kernizan, a sixth-year medical student training in Haiti , discuss the incisions to be made and the aluminum finger splint they’ll use to immobilize it following surgery. It’s fascinating to watch the three—from different countries and cultures—collaborate.

“The circumstances are so difficult here in Haiti. Normally I can’t do the operation you’re proposing because we don’t have that type of splint,” Kernizan says to the Canadian surgeon. “Sure you can,” offers Dr Valverde. “You can use anything—sticks, tongue depressors, whatever—to immobilize it.” Dr Porte (who brought the splints, along with other higher-tech tools and materials from Canada) concurs. A Canadian OR nurse enters the anteroom, cutting the conversation short: “We’re ready to go doctor.” And with that, the trio vanishes into the operating theater.

Following the quick, successful surgery, Dr Valverde tells me: “Working with the international teams here is a great learning experience. I can bounce ideas off the surgeons and they explain their techniques.” Heading back to the ER, Dr Valverde has a near skip in his step. “I love waking up and going to work in the morning.”

We’re met by a boy needing many stitches, including a severed vein that needs sewing, and Dr Valverde sets to work. Night is already falling, but the patients keep coming. “Another one?!” he asks when a young boy hops into the ER. But it’s his young patient from earlier with the infected wound, returning for his second antibiotic shot. The young surgeon compliments the boy for coming back as he finishes mending the vein of his current patient. “This was my most satisfying work in Haiti to date.”

You must log in to comment.

You must be logged in to leave a comment. Log in | Register

Any suggestions for songs to download to iPod for tonight's walk? 10pm ET 7pm PT

May 23rd
8:52 PM
Retweet This

100,000protesters in Montreal support student strikers: http://t.co/fpOCdINb Trying 2 stop the slippery slope 2 US: http://t.co/XoPiP08Z

May 23rd
7:19 PM
Retweet This

Study Finds Fox News Viewers Least Informed Of All Viewers (Did we really need a study for this?) http://t.co/8h9suZs2

May 23rd
3:21 PM
Retweet This

Oh, the price of empire (nearly $1 trillion): http://t.co/21gh9DZe

May 23rd
12:18 PM
Retweet This

Reports say Michael McKean has been moved from critical 2 serious.Broken leg, abrasions, cuts,etc. Here's 2 a speedy recovery for a gr8 guy.

May 22nd
11:28 PM
Retweet This

RT @OccupyWallStNYC: "If you’re a banker, don’t lose my money." http://t.co/IRiCOZON #JPMorgan #FAIL

May 22nd
11:15 PM
Retweet This

Back from the walk. Along the way news@11 tv crews on corner. Actor Michael McKean had been hit by an out of control car. He's @ St. Luke's.

May 22nd
11:11 PM
Retweet This

Here's a few pix from our photo album: http://t.co/ZF9WSiSS & from the NY Times: http://t.co/iLnPG3rL Also: http://t.co/93Dnncns

May 22nd
9:56 PM
Retweet This

8 years ago tonight, Fahrenheit 9/11 won the top prize at the Cannes Film Festival. It's difficult 2 describe the array of emotions we felt!

May 22nd
9:51 PM
Retweet This

Who's still walking with me? Day 66. 10pm ET.

May 22nd
8:41 PM
Retweet This

Is there any politician who isn't on the take? Seriously. Let's start a list(this shouldn't take long): 1.BernieSanders 2.BarbaraLee Others?

May 22nd
10:40 AM
Retweet This

CORRECTION: Wall St & Bain have given $565,000 to Newark Mayor Cory Booker's campaigns http://t.co/aDA3aj2E ...

May 22nd
10:26 AM
Retweet This

And I tweeted this last night: BREAKING: Cory Booker rushes into burning issue to save Mitt Romney.

May 22nd
9:50 AM
Retweet This

Then,Booker goes on Meet the Press & defends Bain & Wall St & says Obama, Dems should stop attacking rich investors http://t.co/D710cbGb

May 22nd
9:47 AM
Retweet This

"@slksputnik: Seems like you've managed 2 do a walk every day since u began. Have u missed any days? If not kudos. Hell kudos anyway." Nope!

May 22nd
8:02 AM
Retweet This

BREAKING: Cory Booker rushes into burning issue to save Mitt Romney.

May 22nd
1:43 AM
Retweet This

An afternoon walk in the rain today: 3:30pm ET Getting wet is good for the soul. Or something like that.

May 21st
3:19 PM
Retweet This

RT @johnknefel: Scott Olsen just returned his medals. Huge crowd response #ows #nonato

May 20th
6:35 PM
Retweet This

"Welcome, Nato, to Chicago's police state ... a 'new normal' of militarized social control" http://t.co/Hspeagq9

May 20th
6:27 PM
Retweet This

Spinning the Supreme Court's 'Obamacare' decision ...by Wendell Potter www.michaelmoore.com If the mandate goes, the insurance industry want to...

May 23rd
2:34 PM
Read More

Amy Goodman and Democracy Now report on vets returning their medals at the NATO summit in Chicago: "No NATO, No War": U.S. Veterans of Iraq and...

May 23rd
7:29 AM
Read More

War Pay: The Nearly $1 Trillion National Security Budget ...by Chris Hellman www.michaelmoore.com Americans overwhelmingly think that national security...

May 23rd
7:14 AM
Read More

Eight years ago today, 'Fahrenheit 9/11' won the Palme d'Or at the Cannes Film Festival: BBC NEWS | Entertainment | Anti-Bush film tops Cannes...

May 22nd
8:25 PM
Read More

Charles Koch + Roger Ailes = Ohio University? ...by Robert Greenwald www.michaelmoore.com Why would Ohio U host a talk by the likes of Roger Ailes? Maybe we...

May 21st
4:20 PM
Read More

Let’s End Polluter Welfare ...by Sen. Bernie Sanders www.michaelmoore.com American taxpayers are set to give away over $110 billion dollars to the oil, gas,...

May 21st
1:19 PM
Read More

How Rural America Got Fracked ...by Ellen Cantarow www.michaelmoore.com This rural landscape is becoming part of a vast assembly line in the corporate race...

May 21st
1:16 PM
Read More

Donna Summer Dies of 9/11-Related Contamination ...by Reggie Cervantes www.michaelmoore.com Only when a celebrity like Donna dies does the world notice what...

May 19th
12:34 AM
Read More

Watch Tom Morello and National Nurses United right now in a rally and concert to tax Wall Street and heal America, live from Chicago's Daley Plaza: ...

May 18th
2:25 PM
Read More

ICYMI, I'll be speaking with Cornel West in a special benefit for New York City's Brecht Forum tonight, Friday, May 18th at 7:00 PM at Hunter...

May 18th
1:01 PM
Read More

DO SOMETHING today in Chicago: Join National Nurses United and Tom Morello in a rally to heal America and tax Wall Street, 12:00 Noon at Daley Plaza: Nurses...

May 18th
5:38 AM
Read More

Today is the tenth anniversary of the premiere of my film Bowling for Columbine, at the Cannes Film Festival on May 17th, 2002: "Bowling for...

May 17th
2:55 PM
Read More

Preying on the Poor: How Government and Corporations Use the Poor as Piggy Banks ...by Barbara Ehren www.michaelmoore.com The trick is to rob them in ways...

May 17th
2:45 PM
Read More

ICYMI, I'll be speaking with Cornel West in a special benefit for New York City's Brecht Forum this Friday, May 18th at 7:00 PM at Hunter...

May 16th
9:27 PM
Read More

Palin's rhetoric torpedoed Medicare savings ...by Wendell Potter www.michaelmoore.com Palin so poisoned the well that not a single Republican will go...

May 16th
1:31 PM
Read More

'Occupy This Album,' with 99 songs performed by David Crosby & Graham Nash, Steve Earle, Tom Morello, Willie Nelson, Ani DiFranco, Third Eye...

May 15th
10:15 AM
Read More

Deficit Reduction: The Great Distraction ...by Dean Baker www.michaelmoore.com Once again our "leaders" are distracting the public from the...

May 15th
10:13 AM
Read More

In the “Loop” with Morello Standing Against ‘Grotesque Income Inequality’ ...by Donna Smith www.michaelmoore.com I listen to the lyrics of one of Tom’s songs...

May 14th
6:06 PM
Read More

This week's This Modern World on DailyKos: Daily Kos: The Austerions www.dailykos.com Readers should imagine the Austerions speaking in full, booming...

May 14th
2:44 PM
Read More

Plutocrats Deserve Public Scorn ...by Carl Gibson www.michaelmoore.com The only way to get the GOP (Guardians Of Plutocracy) out of office is to vilify them...

May 14th
2:13 PM
Read More

One thing I'm sure of: college students will not take this abuse much longer. The rumblings are everywhere. Student Loans Weighing Down a Generation...

May 14th
5:16 AM
Read More

Mother's Day for Peace www.youtube.com Gloria Steinem, Vanessa Williams, Felicity Huffman, Fatma Saleh and Alfre Woodard read the Mother's Day...

May 13th
5:48 PM
Read More

Militarization of the Mothers: You've Come a Long Way, Baby, from Mother's Day for Peace ...by Colee www.michaelmoore.com The five most powerful...

May 13th
5:13 PM
Read More

Happy Mother's Day to all the mothers out there. Here's where the idea came from: Mother's Day Proclamation, by Julia Ward Howe, 1870...

May 13th
4:59 PM
Read More

...and here's my segment talking to Rachel about the Silverdome, and how Michigan is capitalism's laboratory: Rachel Maddow Show www.msnbc.msn.com...

May 12th
3:12 PM
Read More

Here's the segment from The Rachel Maddow Show just before I was on, about the Pontiac emergency manager selling the Silverdome for $500,000: Rachel...

May 12th
3:08 PM
Read More

Subscribe to Mike's Blog RSS

Click here to suggest an article

Mike's Blog

See More Blogs

Vew the archives

View older articles